Loading...

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

Saving Enough for Retirement When Money Is Tight

One of the biggest financial challenges for everyone during their professional years is saving for retirement. The idea of needing to save hundreds of thousands of dollars – or even millions of dollars – for a goal that seems incredibly far off in the future feels simultaneously distant and incredibly intimidating, highly important but not at all urgent, like a mountain on the horizon.

It’s not even a question – most Americans must save for retirement. Social Security provides only a hand-to-mouth existence and very few companies or organizations today offer a pension plan (if you have one, you’re lucky, and I truly hope that the pension is secure).

Like it or not, the last thirty years or so have seen the responsibility for retirement income swing almost entirely in the direction of individuals having to be fully responsible for saving money early in life in order to be able to have a great retirement late in life. The traditional “work thirty years for a company and retire with a great pension” has become “work a few years for a company that might have a retirement savings plan of some kind, then move to another company, then move to another company.”

If you want a life with options in retirement, you have to save for it. There’s no two ways about it.

At the same time, finances for many Americans are tight. As I’ve mentioned many times on The Simple Dollar, 78% of Americans live paycheck to paycheck and more than 10% of Americans making $100,000 or more a year can’t make ends meet. Money is tight for a lot of people.

In other words, the important long term goal of saving for retirement looms on the horizon for pretty much everyone, but the immediate realities of life push as hard as possible away from saving for retirement.

How does a person navigate this apparent conflict? With money so tight, what can a person do to squeeze out space for retirement savings? Here are some strategies that actually work.

Make Automatic Contributions

Here’s the neat part about automatic contributions to retirement: they never show up in your checking account (or, if they do, they show up for a day or so and then disappear). The money is just automatically moved for you. The only change that you really notice is that there’s just a bit less money in your checking account.

Well, isn’t that “bit less money” a problem? What actually happens for most people is that they simply make unconscious changes to spend a little less than before. When you check their account balance and find a little less money in it, you won’t choose to go without important things – rather, you’ll choose to go without minor spur of the moment things.

In other words, your retirement savings will be funded by things like not going into a convenience store when gassing up or not buying a spur of the moment extra book at a bookstore – the kinds of forgettable purchases that we all make when we have some extra money. Those purchases really add up.

How do you automate your contributions? If you have a workplace retirement savings plan, it’s pretty easy – just fill out a form to have contributions taken automatically from your check straight into your retirement account. If you’re managing your own account – say, a Roth IRA – just log onto the website for your account and set up an automatic transfer from your checking account that lines up well with your paydays.

In any case, the money will either never grace your checking account at all or only be in there for a moment. The magical part? You’ll barely notice it at all. It’s easy to think that you’ll definitely notice the change, but the truth is that the difference will be noticed in the form of buying fewer quickly-forgotten spur of the moment items.

Get Every Dime of Matching

One of the most efficient ways to save for retirement is to gobble up every single dime of employer matching if your employer offers it.

Many companies and most public employers offer some form of matching of your retirement contributions. They usually take the form of matching you dollar for dollar up to a certain amount of contributions. For example, some employers will match your contributions up to 5% of your salary, so if you put 5% of your salary away in your retirement plan, they’ll kick in 5%, too. That instantly doubles your money.

Gobble up every dollar of matching. It’s free money, or, at the very least, a part of your salary that will go unclaimed if you don’t take it. Do not leave it sitting on the table (unless you enjoy throwing money away, that is).

Let’s say you make $1,000 per paycheck. If your employer offers full matching of the first 5% of your contributions, start contributing 5%. Your pay goes down to $950, but you’re actually adding $100 per paycheck to your retirement savings. That’s well worth a 5% drop in your pay.

Start Young! (Meaning Start Now!)

The longer you wait to start saving for retirement, the more you’re going to have to save each and every pay period to make it to a decent retirement.

That might be obvious at first glance, but it’s actually even more intense than that. See, the earlier in your life that you contribute to retirement, the more years your contributions have to grow in value.

For example, let’s say you put money into retirement that’s going to grow at 7% a year until you’re 65.

If you put in $100 a month starting at age 25, your total contributions will be $48,000 over the course of those forty years ($100 times 12 times 40).

On the other hand, if you put in $200 a month starting at age 45, your total contributions will also be $48,000 when you reach age 65 ($200 times 12 times 20).

The difference comes in the investment returns.

If you start with $100 per month at age 25, your retirement account will be worth $247,946.81 (given the 7% annual return mentioned above).

On the other hand, if you start with $200 per month at age 45, your retirement account will only be worth $101,832.80 (again, given the 7% return mentioned above).

In both cases, the total contribution by the account holder is $48,000, but by starting earlier, the contributions end up working a lot harder for you, resulting in far more money saved up for retirement.

What does that mean? Start now. Start at the absolute first second you can. The longer the money sits there, the better off you’ll be.

Hands down, the single best decision I made during my twenties in terms of my finances is to contribute to my retirement plans, enough to get full matching from my employer. Because of that, my retirement accounts are already multiples of my current salary and I barely have to contribute any more throughout my adult life to have enough to retire at around age 65 or 70. Anything else I contribute just allows me to retire even earlier or add a bit of panache.

What if you’re older? Start. Now. Every month you wait, the harder the path becomes to a good retirement. You need every possible year between now and retirement for your savings to grow, so start today.

Remember – The Perfect Is the Enemy of the Good

It’s really easy to convince yourself that you can never possibly save “enough,” so why bother? It’s a calculus that many people make.

Here’s the thing: the perfect is always the enemy of the good. Having something saved for retirement is better than having nothing at all.

Even if you just contribute a little, even if you start late, even if you don’t have employer matching, anything you save is going to help. Having $5,000 is better than having nothing. Having $500 is better than having nothing.

People often talk about how much money they should have for retirement and those kinds of numbers seem overwhelming, but the truth is that those numbers present an optimum, perfect case. That’s what you’d need to save in order to have a life with a ton of financial flexibility while retiring early in your sixties.

Don’t worry about the “perfect” picture. Don’t give up because you feel like it’s impossible to achieve that kind of “perfection.” Worry instead about making your own picture a little better.

The perfect is always the enemy of the good. Shoot for good. Don’t worry about perfect.

Good luck.

The post Saving Enough for Retirement When Money Is Tight appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Frugality, Productivity, and the Local Maximum

Bear with me a little bit as I go down a (hopefully interesting) side path.

A few days ago, I read an interesting article by Cory Doctorow entitled How to Do Everything: Lifehacking Considered Harmful, on the issue of how most productivity strategies such as having an organized to-do list helps you find the most productive way of doing the urgent things in your life but doesn’t really help you step back and take a bigger look at things.

Doctorow uses his own life as a colorful example. Once he reached a point where his time was essentially filled, if he wanted to add something new, he could essentially only replace things. If something new came in, something else had to go away. So, in order for that to be a net positive, the new thing had to serve more purpose in his life than his old thing.

Eventually, he reached a point where everything he did with his time served double or triple duty. If something wasn’t providing fulfillment in multiple spheres of his life, it wasn’t an effective use of his time.

That sounds great at first glance, but here’s the problem: It commits you to remaining the exact person you are with little room for genuine growth or new challenges. The areas of your life that you happen to focus on now become so burdened with commitments that those areas become stronger while other areas simply atrophy and wither away.

There is simply no breathing room to step back and look at new things. There is simply no room to relax and reboot. Over a longer period of time, you eventually wind up with a huge set of commitments that you may not be fully happy with, and then you’ll find yourself miserable.

Essentially what Doctorow is describing is a local maximum, something hinted it in a great comment to the article by Arne Brix.

Here’s a simple way to think of a local maximum. Think of the greatest day in the last three years of your life. What was the absolute best day you had in that timeframe? That day is the “local maximum” of the last three years. It is not the best day of your whole life, most likely, but only the best day of the last three years.

The thing is, Doctorow is also describing a local maximum, just in a bit of a different way. He’s identifying the most effective way for him to get the most out of the areas of his life that he cares about right now (or at least over the last couple of years). That isn’t necessarily the areas of his life that he cares about the most over the course of his life.

Right now, for example, an area of my life that is of the utmost importance is my role of being a parent. It’s arguably at the very top of the heap these days. When I try to maximize the productivity of my life and choose what things I take on, my role as parent looms very large over those choices. I commit to things that enhance my role as a parent, like being a youth soccer coach or leading a youth group or planning a birthday party or choosing a career that provides the time flexibility I need to support my children’s growth as best as I can.

Those choices, however, just push me toward a local maximum. While the choices push me toward the things I care the most about as the parent of three school-aged children, they don’t necessarily push me toward the things that I’ll care about as much over the full scope of my life.

Frugality and the Local Maximum

So, let’s bring this idea of the “local maximum” back to personal finance.

As we’ve discussed before, frugality is the most useful personal finance tool in the moment. It really does help you find your “local maximum” in terms of spending, because it’s all about considering how to get the maximum value out of every dollar in hand.

Frugality is concerned primarily with your current paycheck and, to a smaller extent, your next several paychecks. The choice to buy store brands reduces your current expenses and gives your current paycheck more breathing room, for example. The choice to buy in bulk reduces your overall expenses over the next several paychecks. Shopping around for a better cell phone plan reduces your expenses for the next year or two.

All of those things are great frugality strategies, but they essentially only solve the “local maximum” problem. They help you to find the most efficient way to spend the money you have now, but on its own, frugality does not help you find your “lifetime maximum.”

The thing is, quite often, people just need to find that local maximum for a while when it comes to their finances. They’re in a tight spot and they need to know how to get through the next few months, and frugality is really the most efficient method for getting there. Knowing how to shop effectively, knowing how to control your own impulses, knowing how to find free and low cost local resources – all of those tools are really effective at getting people through the next few months. They’re all about maximizing your dollars right now, and that’s what many people care about.

Stepping Out to the Global Maximum

What we’ve established is that productivity strategies like a smart to-do list and frugality strategies like buying store brands both focus intensely on that local maximum. On their own, they don’t really help you find a global maximum.

(To be clear, a “global maximum” in this context is finding the best solution over the course of your whole life or at least a very large portion of it.)

So, how do you find a global maximum?

First of all, you take advantage of the benefits of finding your “local maximum.”

With regards to productivity, you use things like a to-do list and an effective calendar and smart scheduling and paying attention to your focus and energy levels in order to give yourself some amount of free time. The purpose isn’t to squeeze in some extra activity, but to give you an afternoon or a day each week where you have time to unwind and relax and step back and think about things in a broader context.

With regards to frugality, you use things like buying store brands and buying in bulk and making your own meals and shopping around for a better cell phone deal in order to have some money left over at the end of the month, which you then use to build an emergency fund and eliminate debts.

What do both of these things have in common? Rather than just using the benefits of frugality and of productivity to commit to even more things and buy even more stuff, you use those benefits to escape your local maximum and start to find your global maximum.

If you stick with productivity strategies, you start to give yourself a lot of free time to think about your life in a bigger way and to try out new things and explore new interests. You have a window to start tapping into new areas without sacrificing where you’re at now, and that enables you to start moving your life in a new direction as older commitments wind down.

If you stick with frugality strategies, you start to build up a healthy emergency fund and you start to pay off debts. That means that, over time, you have smaller and smaller debt payments and life emergencies don’t push you to the financial edge any more. Eventually, you have a nice emergency fund and your high interest debts are gone and you can start looking at building big things for your future, like saving for a house or switching careers or launching a small business or investing for retirement.

Of course, you can also use productivity and frugality to find an even better local maximum.

You can use productivity to find enough breathing room to take on another commitment right now or add another routine that amplifies something you care about right now. Productivity might find you the margin you need to, say, agree to serve on a committee or to commit to a family dinner at the dinner table five nights a week.

You can use frugality to find enough breathing room to keep surviving week to week financially. Switching to buying store brands and other little tricks can help you simply get to your next paycheck when the going is tough. Frugality can also help you add another bill to the stack. If you can find a way to save $10 a month, you can subscribe to Netflix!

In other words, frugality and productivity are tools; they can either help you find a local maximum or a global maximum. They can either help you pile more on your plate or help you find a different plate entirely.

The question is, how will you use those tools?

Piling On or Getting Out?

We can talk on and on and on about the specifics of frugality and the specifics of productivity, but the question comes down to how you are using those tools to alter your life.

Productivity can be used to pile more on your plate via adding more commitments, or it can be used to find a different global maximum by freeing up a window for long term thinking and trying new things.

Frugality can be used to pile more on your plate by simply helping you stumble to your next paycheck or afford another service, or it can be used to find a different global maximum by helping you start the process of building an emergency fund and eliminating debt and, eventually, investing.

You have those tools in your hand. What are you going to use them for?

It’s really easy for me to point toward the “getting out” solution. It’s easy for me to suggest that the best route is always to use those resources to move you toward the best possible life in the long term, the “global maximum.”

Use frugality to pay off debt. Use frugality to build an emergency fund. Start a debt snowball with that ground you’re gaining and pay off debt faster and faster. Soon, you have a whole new world of options before you and things like switching careers or having kids no longer seem financially impossible.

Use productivity to give yourself a weekend day to explore new projects and think about the big picture. Dabble in new things until you find something deeply meaningful, then start to dig into it. Gradually change your commitments to constantly allow yourself to incorporate new things, but keep that window of future thinking and exploration open.

Those are clearly the best long term solutions as they almost purely point toward the global maximum – the best possible life you might have in the long run.

However, the hard truth is that using those tools for the long term doesn’t really help you get through the moment. You’re essentially choosing to use a tool that would make life a little better right now and using it in a way that doesn’t make life immediately better, but instead helps out at some nebulous point way down the road.

Using frugality to pay down debts leaves you with a very tight financial life today without that extra perk of Netflix.

Using productivity to give yourself a Sunday full of free time for reflection and trying new things leaves you with an incredibly crazy Monday through Saturday.

In other words, when you chase a global maximum, you actually have to move away from a local maximum, and that’s hard.

In order to really commit to the best long term life, you have to have a less than optimal short term life.

Making the Choice

At some point, you have to make a choice between those two options.

The “default” choice for most people is the local maximum. It’s why you hear stories of people with insanely full schedules. It’s why 78% of Americans live paycheck to paycheck.

The thing is, a lot of those people are using frugal strategies and productivity strategies in many parts of their life. They’re just using those strategies to load as much as possible on their plate right now.

Rather than using frugality to pay off debts, they’re using frugality in one part of their life to pay for an expensive car lease or for a subscription to HBO.

Rather than using productivity to give themselves breathing room, they’re using productivity to be able to commit to more things at work and in their family life.

We’re wired to think this way. We’re wired to prefer the short term by default. The lives of our ancestors were short and brutal – they had to choose the short term to survive. The local maximum was the route to survival.

That isn’t true any more.

It’s only through being aware that we’re going to unconsciously choose the short term, recognizing it in ourselves, and consciously choosing to do things that point us to a better life that we’re able to choose the global maximum.

Choosing the best day or week is easy and automatic. Using tools like productivity and frugality to get there is the easiest strategy, too.

Choosing the best life is hard. Using tools like productivity and frugality when they’re not making today or this week or this month great is very hard.

So, what’s the solution?

Three Strategies for ‘Global Maximum’ Thinking

The big focus in my life over the last year or two has been to give as much of my attention as possible to the global maximums in my life. What things do I really want to have in my life over the long term?

I want to have a long lasting marriage, not just survive the week. I want to have children who are moral and independent adults, not just pressing through the weekend with them. I want to have a healthy body and a healthy mind and great relationships and a healthy interior life, not just crawl out of bed each day crunching through more or less the same thing for the rest of my life.

By default, though, I’m always looking for the best day and the best week, not the best decade or the best life. What can I do to change that?

I’ve really found three big things that really push my life to a global maximum.

One, I automate as much of the routine of my life as I possibly can. I save money automatically. I pay my bills automatically. I invest automatically. Most of my to-do list each day is automatically generated (based on long-term goals – we’ll get to that in a minute). In short, I take a lot of the day-to-day decisions that I could mess up out of my hands.

Doesn’t that make for a boring life? Not really. I still have tons of decisions to make, but rather than choosing between a short term option and a long term option, I’m usually just choosing between two short term options. I’ve already made my short term versus long term choices as much as I possibly can.

Two, I’ve started using my Sundays solely for building the best possible long term life. I use the day for four key things: reflection, trying new things, planning out the week ahead, and pure leisure.

I spend at least an hour or so thinking about my life in the long term. I usually do this in the morning before anyone else is awake. I think about my long term goals and whether or not I really did anything to move forward on them this week, and what I could do better next week.

I spend some time planning the week ahead. I make a meal plan and a grocery list (grocery shopping usually happens later on Sunday or on Monday around here). I make up most of my to-do lists for the whole week. I plan out my writing for the week. Some of this is almost automatic, as a lot of my long term goals just generate things for my to-do list and calendar, like a commitment to walk every day and a commitment to exercise and so on.

I spend some time doing something new. Usually, this is done with a friend or a family member. It could be anything, but it has to be something I haven’t done before but have always thought about. It is a conscious effort to keep pushing the boundaries of my life.

Finally, I spend a lot of Sunday on pure leisure time, even if there are things left undone at home. I’ll forget that basket of dirty laundry and I’ll go play board games or curl up with a book. The point of pure rest is to simply give my mind a chance to unwind a little, and I find that if I give myself a big block of this, everything goes better during the week.

How do I find time for this? Well, the rest of my week is pretty clearly planned out. On Monday through Saturday, I mostly just follow my calendar and to-do list and I don’t really make a whole lot of major decisions on those days. I just get things done, and those things just happen to have a long term orientation.

Three, I consciously choose to enjoy the things I have rather than the things I don’t. If I have a desire to play a board game, I look at the board games I have. If I have a desire to read a book, I look first at my own bookshelf and then at the online catalog of my library. If I’m hungry for a meal or a snack, I see what’s already in the refrigerator or pantry.

If I have fifteen minutes of free time, I don’t wish that I had two hours. Instead, I try to enjoy those fifteen minutes. If I’m exhausted, I don’t wish that I had more energy. I go get some rest (because I recognize I’m going to be useless and very unproductive if I push on).

I find that, again and again, my worst mistakes are made when I don’t appreciate what I have in terms of every aspect of my life – money, relationships, time, energy, physical environment, and so on. I may not have a “local maximum” in every area of my life, but I have a pretty good one, and by taking advantage of the goodness that I have rather than constantly obsessing over what I don’t, I end up giving myself more than enough space to seek out an even better life.

Final Thoughts

When you make decisions about how to use your money or your time, ask yourself this simple question: is this helping me find a local maximum or a global maximum? Is this the short term choice or the long term one?

Just try out that habit today. I’m not telling you which one to choose, but just to think about as many choices as possible in that light and see what they reveal in your life.

What you’ll find is that if you start thinking that way a little, and you start making a few choices differently, and if you start putting aside just a little bit of your money and time and energy toward finding a global maximum instead of a local one, you end up very slowly marching toward a truly better life, one where you’re not just working for the weekend.

Good luck.

The post Frugality, Productivity, and the Local Maximum appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Which Debts Should I Pay Off First to Raise My Credit Score?

There’s no doubt that any progress toward eliminating your debts is a smart move, both for your credit reports and your wallet. However, it’s even smarter to pay off your debts in the right order. Knowing which debts to target first, and which debts to leave for later, could potentially save you a lot of money, get you out of debt faster, and boost your credit score, too.

Should you pay off your student loan first, or tackle your credit card balances? What about your mortgage, auto loan, or personal loans? While there’s no “wrong” way to pay off your debt, there are definitely some strategies that might help you to improve your credit scores sooner rather than later.

Start With Your Credit Cards

Generally speaking, it’s best to start with your credit card accounts when you’re ready to begin paying down your debt. Not only are these debts likely the most expensive you’ll ever carry, with interest rates in the high teens or higher, but carrying large balances on your cards will also have a negative impact on your credit scores.

Credit scoring models like FICO and VantageScore are designed to pay attention to the debt-to-limit ratios on your credit card accounts. This relationship between the credit card balances displayed on your credit reports and your account limits is formally known as your revolving utilization ratio.

When your revolving utilization ratio climbs because your balances start getting too close to your limits, you’ll generally end up with a lower credit score. In fact, 30% of your credit score points are based on that debt-to-credit-limit ratio.

As a result, when you begin to pay down your credit card balances, lowering your revolving utilization ratios, your credit scores will generally begin to climb. That fact, plus the high APRs, typically make credit card balances the perfect place to start when you’re ready to begin paying down debt: It’s a one-two financial punch that can simultaneously raise your credit score and save you big bucks on interest payments.

Start With the Smallest Balances

So you should probably begin your debt elimination journey with your credit card accounts. But which credit card should you pay off first?

You probably want to work your way up from the bottom. First, make a list of all of your outstanding credit card debts, from the smallest balance to the largest:

  • ABC Bank: $500 balance
  • QRS Bank: $4,000 balance
  • XYZ Bank: $5,500 balance

By paying off the smallest balance first (ABC Bank in the example above), you’ll accomplish two important things: First, you’ll reduce your number of total accounts with balances. Second, you’ll bring the revolving utilization ratio on an individual account down to 0%. Credit scoring models will generally reward you for both of these actions.

Once you’ve paid off the smallest balance, you can move on to the next largest balance and repeat the process. This actually dovetails with the “Debt Snowball” approach to debt elimination, helping you build and maintain momentum with small victories in the critical early stages of debt reduction.

Just remember to continue making at least the minimum payment on all of your accounts to avoid late fees and potential credit score damage.

What About Installment Loans?

Most of the non-credit card accounts appearing on your credit reports will probably be installment accounts. These debts feature a fixed payment scheduled over a specific period of time. Mortgages, auto loans, and most personal and student loans fall into this category.

Because installment loans are not as indicative of future risk as credit card accounts, credit scoring models don’t pay as much attention to the balances on these types of accounts. The initial impact of installment debt on your credit scores is not going to be significant. As a result, paying off such debts probably is not going to have a positive impact on your credit scores either.

Of course, it can still be a sound financial move to pay off installment debts (especially if you’ve already tackled your credit card balances). But you should have realistic expectations about how big an impact paying off installment debt may have on your credit scores — which won’t be much, if any.

Related Reading:

John Ulzheimer is an expert on credit reporting, credit scoring, and identity theft. He has written four books on the topic and has been interviewed and quoted thousands of times over the past 10 years. With time spent at Equifax and FICO, Ulzheimer is the only credit expert who actually comes from the credit industry. He has been an expert witness in over 230 credit related lawsuits and has been qualified to testify in both federal and state courts on the topic of consumer credit.

The post Which Debts Should I Pay Off First to Raise My Credit Score? appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Monday, November 20, 2017

6 Cyber Monday Shopping Tricks

How you can save more and worry less during the e-commerce blitz.

In case you haven’t checked a calendar recently, Black Friday (Nov. 24) and Cyber Monday (Nov. 27) are coming — soon! Last year, consumers spent $3.45 billion online during Cyber Monday, making it the biggest day of U.S. e-commerce ever! And between Black Friday and Cyber Monday, we’re poised to spend even more this year with Americans dropping an average of $743 each.

So, how can you capitalize on the Cyber Monday sales to check off your Holiday 2017 list? We’ve rounded up some of the best tips and tricks to help you save money!

Trick No. 1: Skip store credit cards

Store credit cards have a lot of flashy upfront perks and incentives to lure you in (save 20% on your purchase today!). However, they have notoriously high APRs — an average of 24.99%, one study found!

If you don’t pay off the entire card by the next statement, you’ll be stuck paying more in interest than you intended. In most cases, you’ll be better off with one of the best cash back credit cards, which you can use at many stores to save money year-round.

Trick No. 2: Develop a credit card holiday shopping strategy

When shopping online you’ll need to use a credit card, but not all cards are created equal. Depending on what you’re shopping for, you’ll need to develop a strategy.

  • Mostly shopping at large retailers, such as Walmart, Amazon.com, Target, or Best Buy? Then one of the best cash back credit cards could earn you 5% cash back.
  • Planning to spend the estimated $743 average? Consider the , one of the best signup bonus credit cards, which delivers a $150 bonus when you spend $500 in purchases in your first 3 months as a cardholder.
  • Worried about having enough time to pay everything off? Some of the best low-interest credit cards can give you up to a year to pay things off, or get up to 18 months of introductory 0% APR with one of the best balance transfer credit cards.

Trick No. 3: Make a list, check it twice

It’s easy to get carried away with the “add to cart” button online, but making a list of the items you intend to buy, stores they can be found at, estimated prices, discount codes and more will help you stay on budget and not be lured by promos and sales throughout the day. Also include any promo codes that are released in advance so you’re not scrambling while trying to check out. Using the notes or reminder function on your smartphone is a way to store everything. There’s also a number of shopping apps or browser extensions that can help you save money.

Items tend to go fast during Cyber Monday, so having a Plan B is helpful. List all of the stores the item can be found at and also if the store will price match a lower offer somewhere else. Additionally, you’ll want to know the exact specs and details about the products you’re looking at to ensure you’re getting a quality item. Just because a big screen TV is discounted to $300 doesn’t mean it’s worth it if it has poor resolution that will hurt your eyes while watching.

Trick No. 4: Sign up for newsletters and create accounts

Many companies will release information about their Cyber Monday sale in advance to loyal customers so get on the newsletter now. If they allow you to combine promo codes you may be able to save even more as a first-time newsletter subscriber. It’s not uncommon for businesses to offer a welcome discount (such as 10% off your first online order) for signing up. Set up your store accounts in advance as well so you’re not trying to create a login and password and enter your address while checking out.

Trick No. 5: Check the shipping and return policy

Ideally, you’ll shop at companies that offer free shipping and returns so you can easily receive your items and return anything that doesn’t work out without any extra costs. In many cases, though, you’ll need to spend a minimum amount to qualify for free shipping. If your total falls short of that minimum, do the math first — if shipping will cost you $15, then it’s not worth it to buy a $25 item that you don’t actually want or need.

Trick No. 6: Protect your ID and credit card information

Why is protecting your identity included in this list of savings tips? Because if you fall victim to identity fraud, you could be on the hook for hundreds of dollars (or more) in financial damage. If the Equifax data breach taught us anything this year, it’s that you can never be too safe when it comes to protecting your personal information.

Especially when it comes to online shopping, you’ll want to ensure you’re taking steps to minimize risk. Some things you can do:

  • Make sure the URL has https:// with an “s” on the end for secure.
  • Go to retailer websites directly instead of clicking ads, which could have malware.
  • Double check retailer URL spellings. It’s not uncommon for hackers to set up fake websites that are similar to the real thing, but with a misspelled URL.
  • Use a credit card instead of a debit card since they have stronger fraud protections should you have to dispute a charge.
  • Check your statements thoroughly to ensure there are no fraudulent charges.

If you like a good deal, but don’t want to fight the crowds during Black Friday, then Cyber Monday may be the best day to tackle your holiday 2017 list. When you shop strategically, Cyber Monday can be a great way to get all your shopping done at once from the comfort of your couch while saving money.

The post 6 Cyber Monday Shopping Tricks appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Are Your Investment Accounts Safe From Hacking?

In the wake of the recent Equifax scandal, you might understandably be jittery about the safety of your money and your personal financial information.

A lot has been written about what you can do to prevent hackers from opening new accounts and new lines of credit in your name. But a lot less has been written about protecting the money you’ve already saved and invested.

Specifically, how safe is the money inside your retirement accounts? How is that money protected from hackers? And what can you do to make sure these accounts are secure?

These are big, important questions given that you’ll have to rely on this money to support you in retirement. And in this article we’ll answer those questions so that you know exactly what to do to keep your retirement accounts safe.

How Safe Are Your Retirement Accounts?

Here’s the good news: Your retirement accounts are generally pretty difficult for hackers to access, especially when you haven’t yet reached retirement age.

A 401(k) or other employer retirement account is particularly unlikely to get hacked. Here’s why:

  1. Many 401(k) plans do not allow in-service withdrawals, meaning it’s next-to-impossible for anyone, including you, to get money out while you’re still working there.
  2. Even if in-service withdrawals or loans are allowed, there’s a lot of paperwork that needs to be filled out and verified before any money can be taken out.
  3. Even if you’re no longer working for the company, there are a number of waivers you would have to sign in order to withdraw the money before eligible retirement age.
  4. Even if you’re no longer working for the company AND you are of eligible retirement age, many custodians require you to sign forms verifying your age and acknowledging the tax implications of your withdrawal.

All of which is to say that there are many hurdles that have to be cleared before any money can be withdrawn from your 401(k), and it’s unlikely that a hacker would even be willing to try, let alone succeed.

IRAs are slightly less protected simply because there’s no restriction on in-service withdrawals like there is with a 401(k). But most of the other same hurdles apply, such as waivers for withdrawals before retirement age and verification of age and tax implications once you do reach retirement age.

And regular investment accounts are slightly more vulnerable since there are no age restrictions around accessing the money. But even then, Jeff Snodgrass, a financial planner and the founder of Mindful Wealth in Du Quoin, Ill., urges people not to worry.

“If you’re at a reputable custodian,” Snodgrass says, “they’re bending over backwards to protect you. The custodian is usually the strongest link in the equation.”

The bottom line is that the money in your retirement accounts is difficult to access, particularly before eligible retirement age. It’s not impossible, and below we’ll talk about some steps you should take to make it even harder on potential hackers. But by and large your retirement money is fairly safe.

Financial Advisors Can Pose a Risk

Ironically, the two financial planners I spoke with both noted that advisors can actually pose the biggest risk to your retirement money.

Snodgrass recounted three separate occasions in which his client’s email had been hacked, and the hackers had emailed him requesting a withdrawal. Luckily he called his clients to verify the withdrawals before proceeding — but if he hadn’t, the clients would have been liable for their losses.

“You need an advisor who understands that they are the weakest link,” Snodgrass says. “If your email is hacked and the hacker asks your advisor to make a withdrawal, the custodian is not liable because it counts as an authorized transaction.”

Snodgrass recommends protecting yourself by documenting with your advisor, in writing, that you will never request certain types of transactions by email. You can also request that your advisor verify any withdrawal requests over the phone before completing the transaction.

Neal Frankle, CFP®, the editor of WealthPilgrim.com, argues that you’re much more likely to be scammed by a broker than you are to have money stolen out of your retirement accounts.

“The much greater threat is falling for some story by some charlatan who sells you on some pyramid scheme,” Frankle says. “Brokers will convince you to invest in their project, get you to convert your funds, and then the money is gone.”

Frankle says that you can protect yourself from such scams by only ever investing in traded securities – like public mutual funds, ETFs, stocks, and bonds – and by never writing a check directly to your broker. Checks should only ever be made out to your custodian, where the money will be deposited.

Can You Get Reimbursed If You Are Hacked?

What if the unlikely happens – if your retirement accounts are hacked, and your money is stolen? Are you able to recover the money you lost?

The short answer is “yes, probably,” but the long answer is a little more complicated.

Most retirement and investment accounts are covered by SIPC insurance, which will reimburse you up to $500,000 if your brokerage firm fails. And while this protection is valuable, it explicitly DOES NOT protect you against theft or fraud.

However, most brokerage firms do have policies stating that they will reimburse you for any amounts lost to “unauthorized activity” as long as you take some basic precautionary steps. These steps vary from firm to firm, but generally include the following:

  • Creating strong passwords and security questions
  • Keeping your login and account information private
  • Keeping contact information up to date
  • Monitoring your accounts, statements, and transaction confirmations on a regular basis
  • Notifying the brokerage firm promptly of any suspicious activity
  • Cooperating with the brokerage firm during any investigation of suspicious activity

For example, you can see Vanguard’s policy here, Schwab’s policy here, and TD Ameritrade’s policy here. You should also be able to look up your current custodian’s “fraud policy” by Googling it.

Long story short, while it’s unlikely that your investment accounts will ever be hacked to begin with, if they are hacked you’ll likely be reimbursed as long as you notify the brokerage firm quickly and cooperate as they look into the issue.

Steps You Can Take to Protect Yourself

While there are already a number of hurdles any hacker would have to clear before being able to access your retirement accounts, there are a few steps you can take to make it even harder for them.

You can start with the above list of steps generally requested by brokerage firms. That is, creating a strong password, not sharing sensitive personal information, regularly monitoring your accounts, and notifying your brokerage firm immediately if you notice anything that looks suspicious.

Snodgrass notes that your password alone is one of the best ways you can protect yourself, and he encourages people to use password managing software as well.

“The best password is a long password,” Snodgrass says. “And password software is absolutely essential. There’s no good way to maintain unique, long passwords for all the places that you’re asked to do it on your own.”

As far as keeping tabs on your account activity, Frankle notes that retirement account statements can be baffling even for the smartest of us and he encourages people to ask for help.

“It’s not your fault if you don’t understand your statement,” Frankle says. “Don’t be intimidated about getting someone at the brokerage firm to explain it to you. You need to make sure you understand your statements and you have every right to ask for help.

For an extra layer of protection, Frankle also recommends asking your broker to call you to confirm every single withdrawal request as an extra layer of protection. He says that not every custodian will be able to accommodate this, but many will and it never hurts to ask.

Beyond that, both Snodgrass and Frankle repeated multiple times that people should generally not worry about the safety of their retirement accounts.

“I haven’t ever seen it happen where a clients’ retirement account is hacked,” Frankle says. “It’s just not likely.”

The Bottom Line: Your Retirement Accounts Are Safe

When it comes down to it, your retirement accounts aren’t 100% hack-proof, but they’re about as safe as it gets.

Really, the biggest threat to your money is your own behavior. As long as you use strong passwords, keep your account information private, monitor your accounts on a regular basis, and avoid shady financial advisors, your retirement money is relatively safe and sound.

Matt Becker, CFP® is a fee-only financial planner and the founder of Mom and Dad Money, where he helps new parents take control of their money so they can take care of their families. His free book, The New Family Financial Road Map, guides parents through the all most important financial decisions that come with starting a family.

Related Reading: 

The post Are Your Investment Accounts Safe From Hacking? appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Sunday, November 19, 2017

Last-Minute Rewards Cards to Snag for Holiday Spending

With the holiday shopping season ready to wreak havoc on your budget, it’s only natural to look for new or different ways to save. Chances are, you’re gearing up for Black Friday and Cyber Monday while simultaneously watching out for special promotions and last-minute deals. By the time all is said and done, we can only hope that most of us will check off our holiday wish lists without going too far over budget.

Still, there’s a limit to how much you can save with doorbusters and Black Friday deals. If you’re looking for some less obvious ways to save that you can stack on top of sales and promotions, it can pay to consider which rewards cards offer the most bang for your buck.

This year especially, a handful of cards are offering stellar deals that can pair nicely with where you plan to do your holiday shopping. Here are a few cards you should definitely sign up for now – before shopping season hits high gear.

Discover it® Cashback Match™

While the is a solid cash-back card you can use in any season, this year’s holiday bonus categories can help you rack up more rewards than usual. But first, let’s talk about how this card works.

Once you sign up, you’ll earn a flat 5% back on the first $1,500 you spend in categories that rotate every quarter, plus 1% back on all other purchases. The kicker is, Discover has promised to double the rewards you earn during your first 12 months.

What’s especially fruitful this year is the fact that the October through December 2017 bonus category just happens to be Amazon.com and Target stores. If you plan to do a lot of your shopping online or at Target, then you can see what a huge deal this is.

Obviously, it helps that the Discover it® Cashback Match™ doesn’t charge an annual fee. You also get a free FICO score on your monthly statement and U.S.-based customer service.

On the redemption side, cashing in points with this card is a piece of cake. Not only can you redeem points for statement credits that will erase holiday purchases, but you can redeem for gift cards and some merchandise, too.

Here are some more details to consider before you sign up:

Discover it® Cashback Match™


Chase Freedom®

Depending on your shopping habits, the is another card that might help you rack up more rewards this holiday season. This card works similarly to the Discover it® in that it offers 5% back on your first $1,500 in categories that rotate every quarter, plus 1% back on all other purchases.

In the last quarter of 2017, the Chase Freedom® is doling out 5% back on purchases made at Walmart, Walmart.com, and department stores. Obviously, this might be huge if you plan to do your holiday shopping at department stores or Walmart.

It’s worth noting which department stores are actually included in this promotion, however. It includes popular stores like JC Penney, Kohl’s, Macy’s, Nordstrom, and Sears, among others. (The full list can be found here.)

In addition to offering a different set of bonus categories from the Discover it®, the Chase Freedom® offers an array of cardmember benefits as well. Once you sign up, you’ll get perks like purchase protection, extended warranties, auto rental collision damage waiver, roadside assistance, trip cancellation/interruption insurance, lost luggage reimbursement, and travel accident insurance.

As an added bonus, the Chase Freedom® offers a signup bonus after you meet a minimum spending requirement. And once you earn your rewards, you can use them in several different ways. Use them to book travel through the Chase portal, redeem them for cash-back or gift cards, or use them to shop on Amazon.com, for instance.

Also keep in mind that, if you have a premier Chase travel card like the , you can transfer your points to that account, and redeem them as more valuable Ultimate Rewards Points.

Chase Freedom®


Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express

Last but not least, don’t forget about the – especially if you expect to host a big holiday dinner. This card doles out an amazing 6% back on your first $6,000 spent at U.S. supermarkets each year (and 1% thereafter), 3% back at U.S. gas stations and select U.S. department stores, and 1% back on all other purchases.

If you expect to prepare a feast — or to pick up gift cards for the holidays at your local grocery store — this card could help you earn a huge rate of return. That doesn’t even include the fact that many grocery stores also have gas rewards programs you can pair with this offer.

This card does charge a $95 annual fee, but it offers a large signup bonus that offsets the fee in the first year. Not only that, but if you do spend $6,000 at U.S. supermarkets throughout your first year — what amounts to a pretty average $500 a month on groceries — you would earn $360 in rewards for those purchases alone.

On the redemption side, you can redeem your points for statement credits, gift cards, or merchandise.

Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express


The Bottom Line

Before you hit the stores hot and heavy this holiday season, make sure you’re using a rewards card that can work in your favor. By signing up for one on this list, you can easily earn at least 5% back on some of your holiday gifts.

At the same time, it’s crucial to make sure you can afford to pay your holiday gifts off as soon as you charge them. With most rewards cards carrying an average APR of around 15%, pursuing rewards while simultaneously carrying a balance is a losing proposition. Remember, the best holiday shopping season is one where you emerge debt-free.

Holly Johnson is an award-winning personal finance writer and the author of Zero Down Your Debt. Johnson shares her obsession with frugality, budgeting, and travel at ClubThrifty.com.

Related Articles:

Which rewards cards are you using for holiday shopping this year? Why? Please share in the comments below!

The post Last-Minute Rewards Cards to Snag for Holiday Spending appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Saturday, November 18, 2017

Developing a Real Plan for a Better Life

For the last few years, I’ve done something of an “end of the year” review of my life. I take some time to sit down, take authentic stock of my life, look at what the last year has changed about me and my life, and figure out where I want to go from here.

I do this in the form of a written “life plan.” I invest the time to actually write out my thoughts of where I am in each important part of my life and where I want to go in the future (with “the future” being a bit vague but somewhere in the five to ten year range).

The first time I did this, I followed a scripted recipe based on what I picked up from a few personal development books and I didn’t really feel it. In fact, I more or less dropped the idea after I did it – it didn’t really have any impact on me and I just filed it away and went on with my life.

It wasn’t until I tried it again the next year in my own way, and then revised it again in my third attempt the following year, that I really hit upon something meaningful. That third attempt was at the end of last year and I felt that it led me into a deeply meaningful year.

Over the past year, I feel like I’ve really moved forward in positive ways in almost every area of my life, and I attribute that to having made a really great life plan at the end of last year. It’s something that I’m really relishing this year, so I thought now would be a great time to discuss what I did last year, what impact it had, and what I intend to do this year.

My “Life Plan”

In roughly November of last year, I took two half days and set them aside to write a draft of a life plan. The purpose of this plan was to simply outline what I wanted out of life in several major areas.

The actual process was simple. I simply made a list of the major areas of my life and then wrote out where I thought I was in each area – what was good, what was bad, what made me happy, what made me sad.

Then, for each area, I wrote out a description of what my life would look like in five or ten years or so if I saw some significant success in that area – nothing world-breaking, but something I’d be very happy with. I tried to focus on changes that would be largely under my own control.

After that, I tried to make a list of five to ten specific things I need to do to move my life from where it is right now to that vision of a good future. What action steps and projects would I need to take on?

I wrote out this plan entirely in longhand in a notebook, and I did it in mid-November of last year. I then put that first draft of a plan away in a desk drawer and pulled it out a month later, close to the holidays, and I revised it. What I found was that during the month, I actually thought a lot about what I had written and I revised the plan significantly, eliminating some unrealistic bits, adding some details, modifying the action steps, and so on.

I then simply embarked on several of those actions and projects, intentionally choosing ones I was excited about and that hit upon multiple areas at once. I made a big list of about ten of them and decided that this year would be the year of those things.

Each and every day, I took a look at that list of things I wanted to get out of this year. I thought about what I could do today to move each of those things forward. It became something of a morning routine for me.

So, what did I achieve this year? A few tidbits:

We had the best family vacation we’ve ever had, thanks to a lot of detailed planning and extra effort from me.

I lost about 25 pounds and got myself into much better physical shape thanks to starting taekwondo.

I read more books in a year than I ever have before since I started counting them, and many of the books were deep and meaningful.

I built up and reinforced a bunch of relationships and reconnected with several old friends.

I completely revised my professional routines in a way that feels much more fulfilling.

Our family’s net worth hit an all time high.

I attribute almost all of those things to my life plan for the year that I started last November, and now I’m about to start the process all over again.

So, how can you do this? Let’s take a look!

The Areas of Life

The first part of all of this is to commit some devoted time to doing this. While it’s great to give this process some off-the-cuff thoughts, the whole plan turns out far better and far more realistic and meaningful if you actually wall off some time to make a good plan. This year, I’m devoting a full “workday” to writing a first draft and a half day to revising it.

One thing you can do to get ready for your session is to think about the key areas of your life. There are lots of lists of such areas and I think different lists work well for different people. For me, there are ten areas I really care about.

Physical refers to the state of my body. Do I feel good when I wake up? Do I have plenty of energy? Am I happy with how I look?

Mental refers to the state of my mind. Am I content with my life or envious of what others have? Do I have control over my thoughts and emotions? Am I able to focus when I need to?

Spiritual refers to my sense of connectedness to the world and things bigger than myself. Do I understand of my place in the world? Do I operate with a clear sense of values and morals? Do I feel a sense of inner peace?

Social refers to my relationships with others. Are the relationships that matter most to me strong ones? Do I have a lot of solid relationships with a lot of people? Do I have a place in my community that I’m happy with?

Marital refers specifically to my relationship with my wife. Do we have a good marriage? Am I a good husband? Do I take the time to care for my wife in an appropriate way?

Parental refers to my relationship with my children. Am I a good parent? Do I have a strong relationship with each of my children? Am I using that relationship to build a backbone of strong values in my children?

Financial refers to the state of our money. Do we have clear long term financial goals? Are we making long term moves to approach those goals? Are we acting in the short term in a way that moves us closer to those goals?

Vocational refers to my professional career. Am I happy with my work? Is it fulfilling? Am I meeting the needs of the people I work for and work with?

Intellectual refers to the acquisition and integration of new knowledge and ideas. Am I constantly learning new things? Am I integrating those ideas into what I already know? Am I really challenging myself to expand what I know and understand and what I believe?

Avocational refers to my hobbies and interests and leisure time. Do I devote adequate time to my hobbies and personal interests? Am I getting personal value from the things that I do?

Over the next week or two, give some spare thoughts to each of those areas – at least, the ones relevant to your life. What would your life look like in several years if you took charge in that area and really put in the work to achieve some things that you wanted? Let those thoughts rumble around in your brain. (This happens to be exactly where I’m at right now with my latest plan revision.)

Writing a Plan

As I mentioned earlier, it’s a really good idea to set aside some significant blocks of time for actually writing your plan. I’m setting aside a full workday to do this, which may or may not be possible for you.

Take your list of areas of focus and, for each one, write a paragraph or two (or more, if you wish) outlining where you’re at with that area. Think about these questions as you do it.

Are you, on the whole, happy with this area of your life? Do you feel generally good about it, or not so good about it? Why?

What parts of this area are going well right now? What’s good about this area? Try to come up with a thing or two at least.

What parts of this area aren’t going so well right now? You may be able to list a lot of things, which is fine, but make sure you’re not just rewording the same difficulties again and again.

I often adopt three paragraphs for this part in each section, but I’m a writer who likes to go on at length about things. I devote a full page to each one and write double-lined so I can add in notes and changes later on.

I usually go through all of the areas first, writing a “state of this area” section for each one.

At this point, go back to the start and for each area, write a few paragraphs describing what your life would be like in a few years should you find reasonable success from your own efforts in that area. Don’t write about things that would result from events largely or completely outside of your control. Focus on a good life that you could actually build without your fairy godmother visiting you.

Here are some things to think about.

If I put in a few hours a week into this area of my life for the next few years, what might I achieve? For example, if you were to exercise for three hours a week for the next five years, what would that look like in terms of your physical body?

If I put in that effort and had reasonably good (but not incredibly good) outcomes from the things outside of my control, what would things look like? Don’t imagine a series of unfortunate events, but don’t imagine a charmed life, either. Just imagine reasonable but generally positive outcomes from the things outside of your control. For example, if your goal is about dating, imagine that you’re building a meaningful relationship with someone you’d enjoy, but not the most perfect person in the world. If you’re writing about your marriage, don’t envision a perfect Instagram marriage, but a healthy and realistic one with some give and take to it.

You’ll find that, as you’re doing this, some of the sections have some significant overlap. You might be writing about one area but recognize that some aspect is almost as much a part of another area as it is a part of this one. That’s okay. Don’t sweat it. You can include the same part in both sections if you want. For example, if I write about hiking, it can pop up in multiple sections at once – physical, avocational, mental, spiritual, and even social.

Once you’ve written a couple of paragraphs about your view of the future of each area, go back to the beginning and do a read-through and revision. Edit the areas by eliminating stuff that doesn’t make sense and adding things that you thought of later on while writing about other areas.

Once you’ve done that, go back through each area and make a list of ten to fifteen actions or projects that would help you move from where you are now to where you want to be in that area. What can you do over the next few years that will help move you from point A to point B? Focus on your actions; don’t think about things outside of your control.

You’ll notice that some of those things you come up with touch nicely on multiple areas of your life. That’s great, but it’s not strictly required.

What will happen as you move through this process is that you come up with a lot of things you could do to build a better life – an overwhelming number, in fact. Don’t worry about it yet – you’re not done.

Let It Rest

The best thing to do at this point is to simply let the whole thing rest for a while. A month is a good period of time.

Why do this? Why not take action now when all of this is fresh? The reason is that while this plan might be exciting, it’s also still fairly rough. It’s full of great ideas in the moment, but you shouldn’t commit your future to something you considered deeply only that day. Your plans will fall flat if you do that.

Instead, let it rest. Give some of the sections a thought in your head, but don’t brood over it. A lot of the work here will be done subconsciously.

You might have a big revelation or two during that month, and that’s great. Just pull out your draft and jot down that idea, then put the whole thing away again. Wait. Give it time.

Revise the Plan

After a month or so has passed, it’s time to revise the plan a little and then tie it all together. Give yourself an afternoon to do this.

First, simply sit down with your plan with a pen in hand and read through it. Whenever you see something that strikes you as not quite right, edit it. Strike out sentences. Replace words. Add new sentences.

What you’ll find again and again is that your first draft was good, but not great. It took you to a point that was in the ballpark, but it wasn’t quite there.

That feeling comes from the thinking you’ve done over the last month, where you internally refined your thinking. That refinement is invaluable. It takes something that’s merely interesting and solid into something that really strikes a deep chord with you.

You might even find that a couple of passes through the whole document is the right thing to do here.

At the end, it’s time to come up with a conclusion. Go through all of those action steps and choose ten or so big things you can work on in the next year or so to move you forward in the various areas of your life.

Look for ones that really ring out to you as exciting and meaningful. What ones really seem as though they’d produce great results? What ones seem like they’d be incredibly powerful to actually execute?

Action steps that line up with multiple areas are good, of course, but, again, they’re not necessary. However, you’ll likely find that most of the ones that really ring your bell are ones that have a lot of overlap across spheres of your life. If you nail that action, you’ll move forward in several areas at once.

When you’ve chosen ten or so, make a nice, clear list of those actions. Consider these your goals for the coming year. It’s a good idea to make sure these subscribe to the “SMART goal” rubric: specific, measurable, attainable, realistic, and timely. Is it very clear what you want to do? Can you easily measure your progress (an easy way to do this is to have the goal involve a number)? Is it something you can actually pull off in a year?

Implement and Review

Take those concluding ten or so big actions or projects and print off a few copies of them. Put them in several places around your home.

Each and every day, at the start of your day, look at those ten big things. Ask yourself what you can do today to move forward on each of them today.

For example, one of my big initiatives for the last year was to meditate for ten minutes each day for spiritual and mental benefits. Whenever I looked at my big list, I simply added “meditate” to my to-do list for the day. I thought about how it was really important to me and I blocked off time for it.

Make these a big priority in your life. Spend less time on “time wasting” things and make sure that you’re doing something each day to move forward on these things. Remember, of course, that at least one or two of these things should be heavily avocational, which means that you should be filling at least some of your time with things you purely enjoy, and other things should be deeply fulfilling. This should not feel burdensome, but exciting (at least, that’s how it’s been for me). I usually enjoy doing those things and I feel like I’m really making my life better on the whole when I move forward on each thing.

Once a week or so, review the full plan. Read through it and give it some thought as you go about your day. This only takes ten or fifteen minutes or so – I often do it on Sunday morning.

What I’ve found is that after several months, the plan does fade a little bit. I’ve changed a little. The circumstances of my life have changed a little. I might have completed some of the actions, and some may now be completely normal parts of my routine. Most of the actions are still relevant, of course, but it’s clear that they’re starting to get stale.

That means it’s time to revise the whole thing. In the past, I’ve just tossed out the whole plan and started from scratch, as I’m doing now.

Final Thoughts

This process has been one of the most meaningful things I’ve done for myself over the last several years. It’s helped me fill each day with meaningful things I’m excited about doing. It’s helped me feel as though I’m really moving forward with my life in directions that I want to be going in.

Most importantly, I feel like I am in a better place right now than I’ve been at any point in my adult life when considering all of the areas of my life as a whole. Things are good, and I attribute a big part of the growth over the last few years to this type of planning.

Give this a try. This is the perfect time of year to do it, as it sets you up for a new year of new things, but you really can do this any time.

Good luck!

The post Developing a Real Plan for a Better Life appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Credit Card Tips to Help Shoppers Celebrate the Holidays Frugally

Learn the strategies to maximize the money you spend on gifts.

With the right strategy, a credit card can help you maximize every dollar you spend on holiday purchases — and even earn some of them back. But what type of card should you choose?

A store credit card and balance transfer card combo is usually the scenario that offers shoppers the most benefit. The process looks like this: Shoppers sign up for store credit cards, like the Amazon Prime Store Card or Target REDcard, to capitalize on high-rate rewards; usually 5%. Then, they sign up for a balance transfer card to avoid paying interest. (Many store cards don’t offer introductory 0% APR periods. And if they do, it often comes with a minimum spending requirement.)

That’s not a steadfast rule, though. Depending on how much you plan to spend, regular rewards cards like the Chase Sapphire Preferred® Card might deserve a second look.

Here are the most popular holiday retailers and their cards:

Store Card In-Store Rewards Rate Special Financing*
Amazon Prime Store Card 5% 6-, 12-, and 24-month
My Best Buy Credit Card 5% 6- and 18-month
Lowe’s Advantage Card 5% 6-month
Target REDcard 5% None (23.90% APR for purchases)
TJX Rewards Credit Card 10% off your first in-store purchase, then 5% None (27.99% APR for purchases)
Walmart Credit Card 3% None (23.90% APR for purchases)

* Special financing refers to zero-interest promotions or offers that are available to cardholders.

Crunching the numbers

The National Retail Federation surveyed 7,349 shoppers and found that on average, each one planned to spend $967.13 on gifts this year. Let’s take a look at a hypothetical scenario based on that average and compare the value of our two holiday shopping strategies at Target.

Target REDcard vs. Chase Freedom®

The REDcard earns 5% back on most Target purchases, so you’ll earn around $48 in store credit. If you don’t plan to pay your balance in full by the end of the month, you’ll need to conduct a balance transfer to avoid paying interest. (We passionately recommend only spending what you have the ability to pay off immediately.)

The earns only 5% on rotating categories, so unless Target is one of them, you’ll only earn 1% on your purchase. But here’s where it gets interesting: If you spend $500 in purchases within the first three months, you’ll earn the $150 signup bonus. Note: You can redeem rewards for cash back and travel, not just store credit.

Summary: You’ll earn $102 more with the thanks to its signup bonus, and you’ll have more flexible redemption options too.

A note about rotating categories

Many cash back cards have schedules that outline which purchase categories earn a certain rewards rate. (It’s usually around 5%.) The categories rotate every three months and often require manual activation — you have to log into your card’s portal and activate the rewards category.

Here’s a breakdown of a few top cash back credit cards that earn 5% this quarter:

  • – 5% cash back at Walmart and select department stores (not including supercenters, discount stores, or specialty stores) on up to $1,000 in combined purchases through December.
  • – 5% at Amazon.com and Target on up to $1,500 in purchases through December.
  • Citi® Dividend – Earn 5% cash back at Best Buy through December up to $300 in total cash back per calendar year.

Choosing the right strategy for you

A rewards card like the isn’t always the most beneficial strategy. Here are the two most important things you should consider as you determine the right credit card strategy for your holiday shopping:

How much will I spend?

This is ultimately the most important question of all. Rewards cards generally won’t match a store card’s high-rate rewards. (Unless the store happens to fall into your card’s rotating category, of course.) So if you’re considering a rewards card, make sure that you will be able to spend enough to earn the signup bonus.

How do I want to spend my rewards?

Most store cards have high-rate rewards, but it’s important to remember that those rewards exist as a store credit. With a rewards card, you will have far more flexible redemption options, like vacation packages, airfare, cash back, and statement credits.

It’s also important to recognize the implications for people who plan to shop at multiple merchants. You might have thought, “Why can’t I open up store cards everywhere I go and consolidate my debt with a balance transfer?” You could, but by spreading out your spend, you also spread out your earnings. Having $10 of store credit at five different locations might not be as useful to you as having $50 in one location.

Paying off a big holiday spend

Here are two of the best balance transfer cards for holiday shopping:

The Discover it® 18 Month Balance Transfer Offer card has a generous 18-month intro 0% APR period for balance transfers and no annual fee. You’ll have to pay a 3% balance transfer fee, but its zero-interest period is one of the best out there. On top of that, you can earn 5% cash back at Amazon.com and Target through December, on up to $1,500 in purchases after you activate.

The BankAmericard® Credit Card offers a 15-month introductory 0% APR on balance transfers. It’s one of the most inexpensive options because there’s no fee for balance transfers made in the first 60 days — and there’s no annual fee either. (After the first 60 days, balance transfers incur a 3% fee.)

The post Credit Card Tips to Help Shoppers Celebrate the Holidays Frugally appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Friday, November 17, 2017

What to Do If You Think the Stock Market Is About to Start Going Down

The stock market has been on an unprecedented run of success over the last decade or so. Here are the average annual returns of the S&P 500 over the last nine years:

2009 – 26.46%
2010 – 15.06%
2011 – 2.11%
2012 – 16.00%
2013 – 32.39%
2014 – 13.69%
2015 – 1.38%
2016 – 11.96%
2017 (so far) – 16.91%

That’s a pretty impressive run. If you put $1,000 in a S&P 500 index fund at the start of 2009 and just sat on it, you’d have $3,442 right now. That’s an amazing improvement!

Here’s how unusual this run is: it’s the second longest bull market in U.S. history (with a bull market being defined as a run of days in which the stock market has not declined 20% from the high water mark of that run).

That kind of correction, where the stock market declines for a while after a run of positive days and years, has always happened at some time or another. Stock markets don’t go up and up and up at a 10% or more average annual return forever. Eventually, something happens: Companies get too greedy, an unexpected major event happens, investors begin to move into other investments for some reason, or something else entirely.

The point is simple: Eventually, the stock market is going to correct – we’re going to see a run where the stock market dips 20% or more. The only real question is when.

Whenever things are this good for this long, people start getting nervous, even if there aren’t any telling signs of a coming decline. I’ve seen that nervousness in play in several reader emails, where people write in asking what they should do if the market is about to drop, even if they have no idea whether it will and have no evidence whatsoever.

Typically, these readers have a significant portion of their retirement savings in stocks and they’re worried about losing value. They picture their retirement savings falling by 40% or 50%, as happened in 2008, and they don’t want to see that happen.

So, what should you do if you think the stock market is about to start going down?

Here’s my answer: Nothing at all, unless there are a lot of extenuating circumstances. Let’s walk through the reasons.

First of all, the stock market is inherently a long-term investment, and this is a short-term factor. Making a big investment choice with a long-term investment based on some hunch that something might happen in the short term is a mistake.

The truth is that, unless you are a day trader or an investor who focuses deeply on the stock market in a professional way, money invested in the stock market should be heavily diversified and it should be a long-term “sit and wait” investment. The reason to cash out of it is because you’ve either arrived at the time where you want to put that money to work or you’re very close to that point. In other words, the stock market’s current activity should never drive the decision of an average person with regards to holding onto their stock investment.

Second, no one can ever really predict where the top of the market is going to be. The longest bull market of all time was several years longer than the current one (1987 to 2000) and this one could be even longer than that. Simply put, no one has any real idea where the top of the market is going to be or how far away it is.

Why does that matter? Let’s say that you sell everything now and move everything into cash, but then the market keeps going up for the next three or four years. Even with a significant correction, you’re still behind compared to just leaving it in place. You simply don’t know what’s going to happen going forward.

Third, even when the market does start to drop, no one can ever really predict where the bottom is going to be. It might be a rapid three-month correction that only drops 15%. It might be a three-year long correction that drops 55%. Again, no one can predict how long it will last and no one can point to where the “bottom” is except for in hindsight after things have gone back up quite a bit.

So, even if you’re completely right and now is the perfect moment to get out, you’re still very likely to miss the bottom of the market by a wide margin.

Combined together, these three big problems with pulling out now if you think the stock market is about to decline result in a situation that, unless you’re lucky, you’re probably not gaining much by pulling out tomorrow, even if some of those guesses go in your favor.

Hold on, though. Didn’t I say that there were a few situations where it’s okay to pull your money out of stocks right now? There are a few reasons.

The first reason is rebalancing. Many people have their retirement savings in a “target retirement” fund which does the rebalancing for them, but if that’s not you, you may find yourself in a position where you want to rebalance things. Let’s say, when you started investing, that you wanted to have 60% of your money in stocks and 40% in bonds. Over the last decade, your stocks have grown a lot faster than bonds, so you might be in a situation where 75% of your money is in stocks and 25% is in bonds. In that situation, it makes sense to rebalance – sell enough stocks to return yourself to the original balance you decided upon. You’re sticking with your plan, in other words.

The second reason is approaching your target date. If you’re getting close to your target date where you actually want to use that money, it may make sense to move some or all of it to something safer. For example, if you’ve been saving up to buy a house and have put some of it in stocks, and the time to buy a house is drawing close, you probably want to pull money out of stocks now because stocks are a long-term investment and you’re now focused on the short term. Note that retirement savings only partially follows this rule – when you retire, you’re likely intending to only spend a small portion of that money in the first several years of retirement, thus most of your money should stay in something aggressive but some of it should go into something safer.

There are other similar reasons, such as changing personal circumstances, where you may want to make a move right now, but the overall matter still holds true: Unless there’s a very good reason to do so, you should stick with your stock investments just as they are and ride through whatever is to come.

Stocks are a long-term investment. Sometimes they go up and sometimes they go down. No one can really predict when the switch between the two will happen. Making a guess can have some pretty terrible results for your investments, and guessing is exactly what you’re doing unless you are extremely gifted at stock investing.

Sit tight and enjoy the ride.

Related Articles:

The post What to Do If You Think the Stock Market Is About to Start Going Down appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…

Thursday, November 16, 2017

The Scientific Side Hustle: Plasma Donation, Clinical Trials, and Other Ways to Make Money Off Your Body

When my brother was in college, he loved to send me emails containing the latest jokes, memes, and YouTube videos circulating on the internet. I’ll never forget the first time I saw grape stomp lady, or the QVC guy who struggles with the teleprompter.

Since I was primed to get joke emails, I thought my brother was kidding when he sent a message with the subject line “Donated Bone Marrow Today.”

The email contained a picture my brother’s friend had taken. My brother was lying face down on an operating table while a medical worker inserted a gigantic needle into his back. It looked like it would take two nurses leaning on that beast of a needle just to depress the plunger. It was jarring.

I soon learned that he was not auditioning to be an extra in the next Saw movie. He was simply doing what many thousands of Americans do every day when they want to earn some side cash — using his healthy body to make money from the medical establishment.

From plasma, sperm, or egg donation to clinical trials and psychological studies, there are many ways to do this (legally!), and I’ll cover them in this article. Keep in mind that earning money in this way is contingent on being healthy, qualified, and vetted by a medical professional. If you want less invasive side hustle ideas, there are plenty to choose from.

Bone Marrow Donation

We’ll start with the activity my brother chose to engage in when he was running low on his beer money: donating bone marrow. This is an outpatient surgical procedure requiring an anesthetic. It’s a fairly invasive process, and not for the feint of heart. A doctor will be using a needle to penetrate your pelvic bone and extract liquid bone marrow. The marrow is given to those who are suffering from bone marrow diseases and are in need of a transplant.

Paying people for bone marrow donations was illegal for a time, but a landmark court case back in 2011 made it legal again. You can now get between $300 and $800 if you donate through a private clinic. You can also donate for free, in which case all the costs of the procedure would still be covered.

Blood Plasma Donation

Donating blood plasma is similar to donating blood, it just takes a little bit longer. You get stuck with a needle and then your blood is extracted in a process that takes about two hours. The blood is then spun in a centrifuge to separate out the plasma. The red blood cells are put back into your body using a saline solution so that you can quickly rebuild your plasma stores.

The proteins in your plasma are generally used for diagnosing diseases, manufacturing therapies, or are given to patients in need.

Blood plasma can be donated twice per week, and most facilities pay between $20 and $50 for a sample. You can check this plasma donation site to find out how to qualify and where you can donate.

Egg or Sperm Donation

This category can make people a bit squeamish, but there’s no denying that selling your sex cells can be lucrative business.

A woman can sell her eggs for an average of $7,000, though that number varies a lot based on location, age, history, education, and other factors. My local hospital offers a flat $10,000 to any first-time donor, and they also offer a nice guide on what the process entails. In short, going through the egg donation process is a big commitment and quite invasive. Hence, the big payday.

Donating sperm is quite a bit easier, and you can still make good money. Qualified men in California can get up to $1,500 per month for visiting a facility two to three times a week. A quick Google search will reveal options for your state.

If you can pass a drug test, fill out some forms, and you are over five feet nine inches tall, you should be good to donate (it’s a cold world out there for short guys). One thing to keep in mind is that this is a longer-term commitment. Most sperm banks require a one-year commitment of weekly donations, and you won’t start getting paid until after six months.

Stool Samples

Yes, really. Fecal transplant operations are becoming popular for people who suffer from Crohn’s disease, C. diff, and other bowel disorders. It involves transplanting healthy colon bacteria into the body of someone who is ill.

If you’re one of the 4% of applicants who qualify as a donor, you can make up to $40 per sample and donate up to five days per week. That’s a serious side hustle. At the moment, donors must be local to one of Open Biome’s Boston-area offices, but the program could soon be expanding nationwide.

Clinical Trials

Clinical trials are used by companies to test things out before they go mainstream. They cover a lot of ground, and participants in the trials can end up being guinea pigs for everything from new drugs to new workout regimes.

The amount you get paid will vary greatly, as some studies require much more time than others. The most lucrative current study I could find is in my old hometown of Madison, Wis. They’re offering adults ages 18-65 up to $6,000 for one study. But, it requires a four-night stay and 11 follow-up visits over a three-month period, which is a pretty hefty commitment.

The government maintains a database where you can find out how to sign up for over 250,000 clinical trials in all 50 states.

Psychological Studies

Psych studies are like clinical trials, but they’re focused on the function of the human brain. They’re usually less invasive and time-consuming than clinical trials.

I used to do these in college all the time. I’d get paid between 10 and 50 bucks per study, most of which required completing a task on a computer and then filling out a survey.

If you live near a university, this is worth checking out, as it’s not only undergraduates who can participate. Many colleges list upcoming studies on websites you can find with a simple internet search. In my area, I see that New York University is currently recruiting participants for over 20 paid studies.

Summing Up

Some of the procedures on this list might make you cringe, which is why I think it’s important to keep in mind that all of these donations are for a good cause. You’re not just making money when you donate plasma or bone marrow – you may literally be saving a life. It requires more of you than selling your old toys on Craigslist, but the payout, both literally and figuratively, can often be much higher.

I should also mention that any money you earn using the above methods has to be reported as income. Just because you’re paid for doing your part for science doesn’t mean you escape the inevitable come April.

Finally, always be safe about how you approach these sorts of things. Only use well-regarded facilities, and research the procedure beforehand so that you know what you’re getting into (There are quite a few women who wish they hadn’t donated eggs, for instance). If you’re at all unsure of what’s healthy, safe, or legal, talk to your doctor. We all want extra cash, but health must come first.

Related Articles:

The post The Scientific Side Hustle: Plasma Donation, Clinical Trials, and Other Ways to Make Money Off Your Body appeared first on The Simple Dollar.

Continue Reading…


Loading...


Loading...

Latest Bla Bla's on Fun2Sh

Popular Bla Bla's

Powered by Blogger.
Copyright © Funtoosh Blog